TucsonDrivers.com

About to install a DBS in the MY06. Towing a camper trailer and need to charge a second battery (in a safety box) at the rear so I can keep the compressor fridge happy.
Will also have a connector to the trailer and camper battery. Shame there is no where under the bonnet but "Hey, we work with what we got!"

At 120 amps the alternator is adequate and I'm using the latest BiSolator from http://www.sidewinder.com.au with 4 B&S cable to minimise voltage drop.

Just curious if anyone else has done a DBS install? Particularly interessted in the cable path through the firewalls and along door sills.

The DIY pages are all full of duff/duff stereo installs but my wheels are always dusty if not dirty and I thought this group would be closer to challenge.

For a Dual bat set up make sure to have a Selenoid in beteewn both so you drown both. Specially if their not the same type. If their not the same one might burn out the other, This has happen to me in the past when I had 1 factory Toyota Bat + a Optima Red top...

For the wires Use 4 gauge minimun and use a whole-saw and a rubber grommet. for firewall.

But instead of spendding all this money for a dual setup, Just get 1 optima yellowtop... It will be cheaper then a sencond Bat + 4 gauge wire... and it looks better as well

my 2 cents.

Ian

I agree with, and already had included, the relay/solenoid and 4 gauge wire. So I appreciate the advice on offer.

The BiSolator M-2082 is a micro-processor controlled mosfet isolator that controls 2 battery circuits not one like a solenoid. Hence it copes with a triple battery rig if needed. Handles an 80 amp alternator continuous with a 160 peak. Max 20sec load is 400 amp. It incorporates surge protection, is marine rated (water crossings do splash a little and I've enough worry of diesel'ing the old V6 bus with that awkward CAI and filter box in 2 feet of water) current limiting with an auto boost and can be wired for a remote control.

The 4 B&S /AWG I'm using is a true 4 gauge, not automotive grade which is significantly smaller.

The reason for a genuine 2/3 battery rig is that in Australia where you can sit for days on the side of outback road with a flat battery, absolutely no one running a refrigerator, or snigging a caravan/camper uses one battery. I know the OPTIMA yellow and/or red are great batteries but relying on one alone can get you into a lot of difficulty. I'd rather have hot beer, than hot beer and be 100 or 200 kms from help with a flat starter battery. A bit like roaming the northern backblocks of Saskatchewan.

Because it's an auto I couldn't even do a clutch start if I wanted. When my current auxillary dies I'll go for a deep cell OPTIMA if not an Deep River AGM.

But before then I'm thinking of taking the cable through an existing gland high on the offside firewall but that's a lot more wire. Just hoping someone had done it already and I wasn't wasting energy when there was already a simple fix. Alternately it might be easier to run some industrial conduit.

Ok Now I see why you need 3 having juice for a few days you need some good deep cycle Bat.

From My experience with the Factory bat was a bad one... 3000W and 0 Gauge wires killed it in 3 days

When I whent fishing with my old man he had a dual setup and he got a cheap 50$ Car Bat and stored it away in his camper so if we did drown the 2 Bat we would take out the spare to start the truck


Ian

Well the install is done and the DBS runs besutifully.

Didn't go for the Main and 2 Auxillary battery setup as planned.  Kept it simple.

Materials
1 * 120 amp DBS isolator from www.sidewinder.com.au
1 * 70 amp Circuit Breaker from www.jaycar.com.au
6m * 6 AWG cable
Cable sheathing for the entire length
Connectors to suit
2 * Anderson connectors for the auxillary battery

Special Tools;
A 2m length of stiff but flexible plastic rod.  I used a piece of plastic tile edge designed to finish off the edge of ceramic wall tiles.  It slides into the trim without scratching the paint and you tape the cable to it and pull the lot through the space.

Cable path (Right hand drive model)
From top of the rear strut tower down the inside of the trim (use the pull thorugh) under the rear left door sill trim (remove), behind the front passenger seatbelt mount (B pillar trim), under the front passenger door sill trim(remove).

Now with the passenger front door open, remove the A pillar trim and you'll see a junction box 'fluster'.  There should be an unused rectangle that let's the cable inside the actual A pillar. On the outside is a rubber/plastic bung about 100mm above the junction. You'll need to punch a round hole through the bung to maintain the dust/moisture seal and accommodate the cable.

Cable goes up and through the inside of the front guard (use the pull through) and then back to the DBS controller.

Notes
DBS earths to chassis at front and rear strut towers.
All cable runs inside a protective sheath. At front of the guard use and additional 150mm of split rubber tube to improve cable protection as it does a 180 degree twist.
Double zip ties inside the rear trim stop the cable being pulled out of the mouldings.

Three photos (if it works) should show
1. Rear setup with strut tower cover off, cable and Anderson plug
1. Circuit breaker on small alluminium plate at front strut tower
1. DBS isolator on inner guard wall near strut tower brace with breaker to the left.

Most aftermarket Dual Battery Systems are set up to protect the mainstarting battery from discharge below the power required to start thevehicle.Why are you so concerned about utilising the auxillary second battery to start the vehicle ?A good dual battery system should always leave enough power in the main battery to crank the engine.

Slight misunderstanding occuring here I think. This system does not 'automatically' enable the second battery to be used as a crank battery. It does as you describe, it protects the mainstarting battery from discharge below the power required to start the vehicle. When the engine is switched off it isolates the main battery from any load (12v refrigerator, camping lights, pumps etc.) that draws down on the second battery.

The only time it could be used as an auxillary is to unclip it from the rear of the vehicle and use jumper leads to parallel the main battery. Alternately there is also the option to swap a dead main with the auxillary.

The whole point is to have convenience without risk.

Since the install I now also have a 250 Watt solar array that is used when camping to keep the auxillary fully charged when not in the car, as well as the battery in the camper trailer.

Does that help?